I am on my way to Bishkek, Kyrgyzstan. We started at 11.20 a.m. from Sinrara Bus Station in a mini bus which is 16-17 seater. Seats were comfortable. The driver was good, although he was driving at a speed but was careful. We stopped 15 minutes back for ticket and for cold drinks and snacks. The stoppage was just for 10 minutes so nobody went to the adjacent restaurant. I was left with some Kazakh coins and so bought a cup of nestle tea for 150 tenge. There are mountains on our left. There are no trees except near the road. Right side low mountains are similar with vast Greenland. Wherever there are houses, I can see a cluster of trees around them. These are like oasis in the desert.
We are racing towards Border between two countries. Road is divided into two lanes, one for going and one for coming with almost no traffic. The road is well tarred and good. I can see large trees on my right side which indicates that there’s a large village. Earlier large village on the right side was ‘Toglop’. Speed restriction to 50 km again indicates village approach. Bishkek is 78 km and right side village other’s Volou. This is the Border. Our Bus stopped there. Mountains have vanished, and there is only grassy land.
When we started driving from Syraan, it was very wide road with two lanes on each side. We were struck up for 20 minutes in traffic jam on our side of the road. Now we are in the hills and crossing them with trees shade. This is a mountain pass and now some cars coming from Bishkek side. There is now forest on both side. A windmill of two platforms was also there. We have crossed the 20 meter long pass and again flat ground. Another village and I could see a mosque also. Houses are old and of dilapidated condition. Terrain is again hilly. I think now the border post is coming. Road is rough but not bad.
I got up first at 3.30 a.m. and then 4.30 a.m. when I made a cup of tea and again slept after drinking tea. Finally at 5.30 or so got up and packed the rucksack and went for shower. Sugar was still high 179 (tasting). I had breakfast of the same onion stuffed Nan (which I also ate in the dinner, One and a half tomato and cucumber). After that I left around 8.30 a.m. and handed over the key at the reception and asked for directions for Syraan Bus stand. Another Senior lady wrote on a slip ‘Syraan’ in Russian and gave me guide direction. I have gone to the main road after crossing the Mazjid walked till the bus stand. Bus No.37 started from this Bus Stop at 9.30 a.m. and at 10 a.m. I got down at Syraan. Crossed the side road, took some pictures. One can see snowy mountains right in the front. The passengers for other countries had to go through the check for permits or passports. At the gate of this separate enclosure, one person was sitting. Bus ticket for 1387 tenge only which was quite cheap.
Border town in Kazakhstan was quite big. There was a public Bus service and extended up to the Border. We got down from the Bus and all carried our luggage to custom and immigration area. In fact there was no custom check except when somebody bringing huge amount goods. People coming from Kyrgyzstan were doing so. Goods may be cheaper there. Immigration also did not take much time. Immigration Officer told me that I had a single entry visa and if I leave, I cannot enter Kazakhstan. Probably he saw my one month visa and leaving after 4 days. I thanked him and walked through the no man’s land to Kyrgyzstan. There was a small river “Shu” which was apparently the border.
Kyrgystan side was less organized and one can easily notice the difference. The mini Bus was there and I kept the baggage and sat in the Bus. Some passengers got down in the Border town. Road was also not good. Traffic was heavy. Probably this side of the road goes to 2 different towns apart from Bishkek. After 15 minutes, it was a good road and the mini bus picked up speed. Both sides were houses, poorly built with toilets in shacks outside. Gala, the actor girl got down one stop before from Bishkek and said bye to me.
Bishkek Bus station was disappointment. Small bus, crowded place and nowhere to sit. Dostan, a young boy who was sitting with Gala near the driver come to me and told me to go City Centre which is very beautiful. We walked out of the stand and from the Public Bus Stand took Bus No.139. It was stopped at the nearby last stop. I paid 10 Som for Doston’s ticket also. Then took another Bus 139 which was going to city. We got down at Bazaar and then walked through it. Now Doston hired a taxi and asked me to pay 100 Som. He talked to driver for a cheap hotel. Driver went through the city map and then drove. There is a lot of greenery, lots of trees on both sides as if city was built in jungle. We reached a posh area and taxi stopped at Hotel Dostute. From the look I found it expensive but we came inside. It was 70 Som. I talked the Receptionist who knew good English. She spoke to some other Hotel for 53 Som. I should have taken that and gone there. Here I took out the number of Gala and asked the receptionist to connect to her. I told Gala the problem of cheap accommodation. She wanted to speak to Doston and gave some instructions to him. Now we come out and Doston who did not know English told that apartment. Again I paid 100 Som to driver and came to place which was crossing of Moscow road and Samarkand road.
The rucksacks were heavy but I was headstrong. There was an Exchange nearby. I exchanged 100 US $ and left 20 Som in the bag. Dostan moved to the back of a Block of Flats of 4 storey. In the back side, the road was broken and there were a big block of flats 4 storey. He asked me to sit on a bench and phoned couple of times. Finally a big man came and brought the keys and gave them to Dostan. He did not look or talk to me. We climbed four stories and the apartment 24 was open. There was a woman already. This was a big room with a double bed on one side and a single room on other side. A T.V., a table, big wordrobe and side table with few show pieces, a wall clock, side table, two good chairs, then a shoe and coat rack outside, toilet and a tub, shower and then a kitchen with gas, fridge, washing machine, some cutlery, a small dining table and a chair. There were huge windows in the room and in the kitchen. I paid 2520 T Som to the woman. 100 T Som she will return tomorrow. This was for two nights stay. Dostan said let us take some sleep. He lied on the single bed and I lied on the double bed. It was already 5 p.m. I did not get sleep for more than 15 minutes.I got up and took shower. I was wondering why he was not going home which he mentioned is nearby. I had asked for his e-mail and phone number. I wanted to go for internet Cafe which I had seen at a nearby place when we were coming to this place. At 6.45 p.m., we both left the room. I carried only two note books and left everything in the room. I also left the passport and US $ 20 note in the small rucksack. Dostan locked the front door with great difficulty. I thought of giving him dinner before he goes away. We found the internet Cafe at the crossing of big roads. He took 30 Som to pay to the internet owner for this. The keys of the apartment were with him. He asked for 100 Som for his drinks and said he will come back. Dostan did not know English except Russian. But somehow, I was able to understand him. I did not realize that keys are with him. He came back probably after 20-25 minutes and kept the keys on the computer table where I was working and walked away. I told him to meet me at 8 p.m. I’d finished 1 hr of internet but he did not come. I then came back to the apartment. I had noted the landmarks. The door was opened and I realized that something seriously is wrong.
Entered the room. My small rucksack was lying opened. I did not find my passport where I’d kept after the border clearance, I pad, Movie Camera, Still Camera and mobile, everything had gone. There was US $ that was also gone. I was stunned and then came down shouting for Police. Fortunately one tall local guard was there. He did not know English. Small school children, boys and girls were playing. They all collected. They knew English. I told them what has happened. They translated it to the guard. He immediately telephoned the Police. He said they are coming. I was feeling awful. The idea of going back was killing. I was mainly worried for my passport. The guard telephoned many times to the Police. It seemed to a long time may be 40 minutes for the Police to come. There was one Police car with one Police woman and two other Policemen. Then at 10.30 p.m. Baystan, ex-Policeperson who knew English came. He was called by the Police Station.I explained to him all the circumstances. Then we want to Hotel Dustitue. Police wanted to see the CC T.V. footage. It was Sunday and it was not possible to do it because all technicians were on leave. Before this, we went to internet Cafe and saw the footage. He was there coming and going but his face was not clear. At Hotel the same receptionist was there. She took the photo from her mobile when he was speaking on his mobile. It was a clear picture. We thanked her for giving Dostan’s Photo.
Now we came back to the Police Station. I was apprehensive that he might go to Kazakhstan. Damira arranged my going to Border with three Policemen. They asked 500 Som for petrol. We had Shorma at the Border and we moved to the Immigration Department. Senior Policeman described the events that took place. Immigration Officer noted the name and made few copies and gave it on a window. These people were not equipped for such eventuality. We drove back to the Police Station. While going back, I bought three Shorma for 3 Policemen and for myself for 300 Som. It was O.K. Now at the Police Station, I was asked to write formal report. It took a long time. I told Damira I just wanted my passport back and forget Cameras. With the loss of Passport, I will have to go back and this was the end of my trips. I was exhausted. Baystan was assuring me that you would get your passport by morning because he might have given it to the flat owner. I was not convinced. Baystan left me in his car to the Apartment and came up to 4th floor to leave me.
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